Kangerlussuaq – Ilulissat
A new adventure is on the way - at least a great experience.
From heat wave in Denmark to cold shock in Greenland. It could well have been a headline, but it's not quite that dramatic. Good thing we had 28 degrees when we left home and it's quite warm, but here in Greenland the 5 degrees now feels ok.
In Kangerlussuaq, we live in Old Camp, an older hostel with floors so crooked that even Tivoli's hurlumhej house will turn green with envy. Fortunately, there is plenty to see and we go on a Tundra safari to take a closer look at the beautiful nature. Fingers crossed to spot musk oxen that have good living conditions here.
We continue north, precisely to Ilulissat, which is approximately 350 km north of the Arctic Circle. The town is located by Kangia, which the locals call the Icefjord, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Both inside the city and slightly outside, there is a view of the biggest attraction – the icebergs.
At sunrise and sunset they are photographed. Getting up early and going to bed late, builds up a certain tiredness and makes the thought of a midday nap always present.
From Ilulissat we go on a day trip with 6 hours sailing in a fast boat up the coast. We are going to the Eqi glacier, which breaks off icebergs that flow into Disko Bay
A local company, uniqetours.gl, has bet big and had a brand new Targa boat built to their own specifications. As it says on the jackets "sustainable tourism uses locals" and they are absolutely right about that. If tourism is to have a positive impact - it has to provide income and a future for the local population and not just for a large efficient multinational group.
We are also lucky to spot a humpback whale, which has not traveled with the others to warmer climes.
The boat sails carefully through the ice-filled fjords and we arrive at the glacier, which we can hear is in constant motion. It sounds like thunder when it gives way. Once in a while it calves, so the ice falls into the water. For the same reason, we must keep a good distance. The ice wall is about 120 meters high and it can be large pieces that break off.
In the picture you can see the line on the rock where the glacier went in 2001, so it has unfortunately shrunk quite a bit. The researchers expect it to have completely disappeared in 10 years. However, our Greenlandic guide does not think that it goes quite so quickly. But it is clear that the melting is taking place at an unprecedented pace.
In Ilulissat there is a museum dedicated to polar researcher and explorer Knud Rasmussen. We already know him from Knud Rasmussen's summer house in Hundested, so it is special to see their exhibition here. Equipment and clothing from that time and exciting stories about expeditions and his life in Greenland are on display.
Although we are in September, the first snow has not yet fallen, so unfortunately we cannot get out and go dog sledding. But the dogs are definitely ready. It also seems that the next generation is assured.
They look cute and lovely with their thick fur, but you have to remember that they are not pets as we know them. Unfortunately, it sometimes happens that careless children lose their lives in close contact with the dogs. They are working animals - with a certain degree of harshness.
